I told Y I'd write a blog post at the end of every day of our Scotland trip. Not entirely without justification, Y said "yes, well just see how you go". So here you have it, not a blog post at the end of day 1, but at the end of the entire 9 day trip (although in my defence, we've barely left Edinburgh and the post is done!).
We've been in Scotland with my parents, who are visiting from Australia. We've been following (with some variations) a fabulous itinerary from Secret Scotland. As well as lots of helpful information, you tell them how long your trip is, what your interests are (castles, whisky, scenery), and then for less than £20 they give you an incredibly detailed itinerary, with suggestions on which routes to drive, where to stop, sleep, eat, visit and avoid. For an additional £10 they will provide an accommodation guide, with several recommended B&Bs to stay at each location. Other than where we altered the itinerary a little, we've stayed at places recommended by Secret Scotland, and they've been top notch, and all with a special, personal touch.
Here is a quick list of the top places we've enjoyed sleeping and eating in Scotland:
Edinburgh
In Edinburgh we stayed at the beautiful Sheridan Guest House. It's actually located in Leith, and is a pleasant 20 minute stroll down to the many restaurants along the port, and a 10 minute bus into the city centre. The house is lovely, bright and airy, with some great art and very pretty front garden. We really loved it here.
Our family is fanatical about coffee. I was relieved then when we found Wellington Coffee. The coffee is Square Mile Coffee (which made us east Londoners feel at home), and is made perfectly. We (in the interests of research) had fruit scones, baked fresh that morning, and yummo were they good.
We had a thoroughly enjoyable dinner at The Saint, in a lovely little neighbourhood near Stockbridge Market. This restaurant had a great atmosphere and the food was excellent. The Saint's sister establishment is Bramble Bar, a fabulously secretive venue (look carefully underneath a clothing alterations shop!) mixing gorgeous cocktails.
On our return to Edinburgh at the end of our driving trip we stayed in some great rooms at Lantern Guest House. This accommodation is in a great location and excellent value.
Our final dinner was at Fishers in the City (their other restaurant is on the port at Leith). The seafood was excellent and I loved this salmon plate. Both my dad and I are determined to crack the recipe for the divine peanut butter ice cream we devoured for dessert!
Aviemore
Our next stop was Aviemore, where we stayed at Ravenscraig Guest House. The accommodation and breakfast were both great, but the highlight for us Aussies was the 20cm of snow that fell over night. We awoke to a winter wonderland, and our hosts seemed rather pleased that clearing snow was such a novelty for us!
A friend had told Y that we should eat at the Old Bridge Inn. Wow. Although the surroundings screamed mediocre family restaurant, and the service wasn't anything special, the food was incredibly good. My gorgeous slow cooked pigs cheeks wouldn't have been out of place in a good London establishment. What a great find!
Speyside
I'm not a whisky drinker, but Y was impressed with the offerings at Glenfarclas distillery (a recommendation from our hosts at Ravencraig Guest House). In the small village down the road from the distillery, Aberlour, is a great little shop, The Spey Larder, lined with old fashioned wooden shelves heaving with all sorts of deliciousness.
Black Isle
After driving through such breathtaking countryside, and exploring Loch Ness, what could be better than crossing the bridge to the Black Isle, leaving Inverness behind, and arriving at the lovely Craigiewood B&B to be greeted with tea and homemade flapjacks? You feel as though you're in the middle of nowhere, which means all there is to do is relax! We couldn't have been made to feel more welcome by our hosts, who get the balance of fussing over you and leaving you alone, just right.
For dinner we drove about 20 minutes to The Anderson, a very quirky pub and restaurant in Fortrose. We ate in the bar area and enjoyed excellent seafood and divine sweet potato fries.
Kinlochewe
I have to say, whilst driving along the incredible Wester Ross trail, we went through some lifeless towns, and I was happy to have seemingly forgone any sign of decent food for the spectacular scenery. I totally therefore underestimated the Whistle Stop Cafe. I was immediately cheered by the fab decor (below), the rosy welcome and the fact that the scones had been baked less than an hour ago. Seated by the fire we dolloped jam and cream using pretty mismatched china, and enjoyed good coffee.
Plockton
If you dreamt up the most picturesque sea side village you still couldn't conjure up Plockton, especially in the late afternoon when the gorgeous landscape is mirrored in the still water. We stayed right by the sea in a great B&B,
An Caladh. The highlight was incredibly fresh and delicious seafood at
Shores Restaurant. Fortunately we only had to roll ourselves about 20 metres home after this feast!
Isle of Skye
A friend of ours had looked over the itinerary provided by Secret Scotland and made helpful notes with her recommendations. Next to the entry for
Three Chimneys restaurant at Colbost, she wrote "my favourite restaurant in the whole world". On the strength of this entirely objective praise we booked a table for lunch (we later found out that booking 4 months in advance had been wise). It was sublime. Somehow the food manages to to be hearty yet delicate and light all at once. The presentation was so pretty, and it was clear that time and thought had been spent on every element of each dish. It was truly a special experience.

If sustainence is needed (sitting in the back of a car can be tiring), there are a few cute cafes dotted around the island. Sheilings Cafe in Idrigill near Uig was very cute, with some knitted items and second hand (in London it would be "vintage") jewellery and crockery for sale. Scones were fresh and delicious, coffee was good, the owner friendly (he said we were allowed to lick our plates). The Ellishadder Art Cafe sounds great, but our bellies were still groaning from breakfast (at our lovely B&B just outside of Portree, Grasmhor) when we passed.
Dornie
If it's a great little pub, filled with locals, situated on the water and serving good grub that you're after, The Clachan is the place! Service was super friendly and my fish pie delicious. We stayed near by at Seadrift B&B (on Kyle of Lochalsh) which, on first appearances doesn't look promising, but is a great value place to stay in a location straight from a jigsaw puzzle.
Glencoe
The Glencoe Cafe is a surprising hub of activity for an otherwise normal residential street. And as long as the smiling staff keep serving up good coffee and yummy baking (scones were fresh from the oven, date & oat crumble slice was tasty), I dare say it shall remain so!
Drymen
In Drymen we stayed in one of the best B&Bs of our trip (and not just because we found chocolate bunnies at the breakfast table!), Bramblewood B&B, located amongst the trees just out of the village. The village was very cute, but a little thin on the ground for dining options. We ate at the Clachan Inn, which had a great atmosphere and was buzzing by 6pm, but was certainly no gastro pub - if the ham steaks and pineapple rings of your youth are calling, by all means check it out. Other options in the village are the Pottery restaurant or the Buchanan Arms and in retrospect we may have been better off going to one of those.
That has been our wonderful trip around Scotland. We have all fallen in love with the incredible scenery, the delicious seafood, the ancient castles and the wonderfully friendly people. If you haven't been, add it to the list!